Wave conditions: read the forecast and know what to expect

If you head to the coast, knowing the wave conditions is more than a nice-to-have — it keeps you safe and helps you pick the right time to go out. This quick guide breaks down the essentials so you can read a surf or marine report without guessing.

Key terms that actually matter

Swell height is the number you see first. It’s the average face height of incoming waves. Swell period is the gap between big waves in seconds — longer periods (12–18s) usually mean stronger, cleaner surf. Swell direction tells you where the swell is coming from; if it hits your beach at the right angle, waves will stand up better.

Wind changes everything. Offshore wind (blowing from land to sea) grooms waves and makes them cleaner. Onshore wind wrecks them and makes conditions choppy. Watch gusts, too — sudden strong gusts can flip a good session into a risky one fast.

Tide affects how waves break. Some breaks work on low tide, others on high. Sandbars shift, so the same swell can be mellow one week and powerful the next depending on tide and beach shape.

Don’t forget the sea floor: reef, point, or beach breaks shape the wave. Reef and point breaks often give longer, predictable rides; beach breaks can be punchy and change daily.

How to read a forecast like a pro

Start with swell height and period. If you see a 2m swell with a 15s period, expect powerful, well-formed waves. If that swell comes from the wrong direction for your spot, waves may be small or messy. Combine swells — reports often show multiple swells stacking; that can produce bigger sets or confusing cross-waves.

Check wind for the whole day, not just now. Morning offshore that switches onshore by noon means an early session is better. Look at tide charts and match them to how your local break behaves. If you don’t know the break, ask a local or check recent photos and reports.

Currents and rips are the silent risk. Strong currents make paddling tiring and create hazardous exits. Learn how rip currents look — channels of darker, choppier water, foam moving seawards — and how to escape: float, don’t fight, and swim parallel to shore until you’re out of the flow.

Useful sources include buoy data, global apps like Windy and Magicseaweed, and local surf reports. In many African coastal areas, national meteorological sites and harbour authorities provide reliable marine forecasts too.

Quick checklist before you go: check swell height/period, wind direction and gusts, tide timing, local hazards, and your own skill level. Tell someone where you’re going and when you’ll be back.

Know the signs, respect the ocean, and match the conditions to your experience. With a little practice reading wave conditions, you’ll pick better sessions and stay safer on every trip to the water.